Kowloon&nbsp;rewards&nbsp;a&nbsp;walk&nbsp;with&nbsp;an&nbsp;appetite.&nbsp;This&nbsp;street&nbsp;food&nbsp;safari&nbsp;opens&nbsp;at&nbsp;Exit&nbsp;D2&nbsp;of&nbsp;Sham&nbsp;Shui&nbsp;Po&nbsp;MTR&nbsp;Station,&nbsp;where&nbsp;your&nbsp;guide&nbsp;hands&nbsp;out&nbsp;wet&nbsp;wipes,&nbsp;gives&nbsp;you&nbsp;the&nbsp;culinary&nbsp;rundown,&nbsp;and&nbsp;gets&nbsp;you&nbsp;queued&nbsp;at&nbsp;Hop&nbsp;Yik&nbsp;Tai&nbsp;for&nbsp;cheong&nbsp;fun,&nbsp;silky&nbsp;rice&nbsp;rolls&nbsp;draped&nbsp;in&nbsp;sweet&nbsp;sauce&nbsp;and&nbsp;sesame&nbsp;paste&nbsp;that&nbsp;have&nbsp;earned&nbsp;this&nbsp;stall&nbsp;recognition&nbsp;in&nbsp;the&nbsp;Michelin&nbsp;Guide&#39;s&nbsp;street&nbsp;food&nbsp;picks.[Suggested&nbsp;image:&nbsp;steaming&nbsp;rice&nbsp;rolls&nbsp;being&nbsp;sliced&nbsp;at&nbsp;a&nbsp;stainless-steel&nbsp;cart]From&nbsp;there&nbsp;you&nbsp;wander&nbsp;Fuk&nbsp;Wa&nbsp;Street&nbsp;to&nbsp;Kwan&nbsp;Kee&nbsp;Store&nbsp;for&nbsp;put&nbsp;chai&nbsp;ko,&nbsp;a&nbsp;dense&nbsp;rice&nbsp;pudding&nbsp;studded&nbsp;with&nbsp;red&nbsp;beans,&nbsp;and&nbsp;nine-layer&nbsp;ginger&nbsp;cake&nbsp;sliced&nbsp;thin&nbsp;enough&nbsp;to&nbsp;see&nbsp;through.&nbsp;A&nbsp;few&nbsp;doors&nbsp;down,&nbsp;Kung&nbsp;Wo&nbsp;Beancurd&nbsp;Factory&nbsp;turns&nbsp;out&nbsp;pan-fried&nbsp;tofu&nbsp;fish&nbsp;paste&nbsp;and&nbsp;tofu&nbsp;pudding&nbsp;so&nbsp;soft&nbsp;it&nbsp;barely&nbsp;holds&nbsp;its&nbsp;shape,&nbsp;Sham&nbsp;Shui&nbsp;Po&#39;s&nbsp;version&nbsp;of&nbsp;dessert.Then&nbsp;the&nbsp;tour&nbsp;shifts&nbsp;gears.&nbsp;Two&nbsp;MTR&nbsp;stops&nbsp;later,&nbsp;you&nbsp;surface&nbsp;in&nbsp;Mong&nbsp;Kok,&nbsp;where&nbsp;the&nbsp;signage&nbsp;gets&nbsp;brighter,&nbsp;the&nbsp;alleys&nbsp;narrower,&nbsp;and&nbsp;the&nbsp;carts&nbsp;start&nbsp;sizzling.&nbsp;Near&nbsp;Sai&nbsp;Yeung&nbsp;Choi&nbsp;Street&nbsp;South&nbsp;you&#39;ll&nbsp;try&nbsp;curry&nbsp;fish&nbsp;balls&nbsp;on&nbsp;a&nbsp;skewer&nbsp;and&nbsp;stuffed&nbsp;three&nbsp;treasures,&nbsp;dace&nbsp;fish&nbsp;paste&nbsp;packed&nbsp;into&nbsp;eggplant,&nbsp;pepper,&nbsp;and&nbsp;tofu,&nbsp;the&nbsp;kind&nbsp;of&nbsp;stall&nbsp;food&nbsp;that&nbsp;fuels&nbsp;Mong&nbsp;Kok&#39;s&nbsp;shopping&nbsp;crowds&nbsp;day&nbsp;and&nbsp;night.Dessert&nbsp;comes&nbsp;near&nbsp;the&nbsp;Ladies&#39;&nbsp;Market:&nbsp;freshly&nbsp;baked&nbsp;gai&nbsp;daan&nbsp;jai&nbsp;(egg&nbsp;waffles)&nbsp;or&nbsp;a&nbsp;cold-butter&nbsp;pineapple&nbsp;bun,&nbsp;the&nbsp;contrast&nbsp;to&nbsp;Sham&nbsp;Shui&nbsp;Po&#39;s&nbsp;older&nbsp;sweets.&nbsp;For&nbsp;anyone&nbsp;chasing&nbsp;a&nbsp;real&nbsp;challenge,&nbsp;there&#39;s&nbsp;an&nbsp;optional&nbsp;stop&nbsp;for&nbsp;stinky&nbsp;tofu&nbsp;or&nbsp;fried&nbsp;pig&nbsp;intestines,&nbsp;with&nbsp;herbal&nbsp;tea&nbsp;or&nbsp;fresh&nbsp;coconut&nbsp;on&nbsp;standby&nbsp;for&nbsp;the&nbsp;rest&nbsp;of&nbsp;the&nbsp;group.The&nbsp;walk&nbsp;wraps&nbsp;near&nbsp;Nathan&nbsp;Road&nbsp;and&nbsp;Sai&nbsp;Yeung&nbsp;Choi&nbsp;Street,&nbsp;where&nbsp;your&nbsp;guide&nbsp;sends&nbsp;you&nbsp;off&nbsp;with&nbsp;a&nbsp;digital&nbsp;food&nbsp;map&nbsp;for&nbsp;dinner&nbsp;and&nbsp;points&nbsp;you&nbsp;toward&nbsp;Mong&nbsp;Kok&nbsp;MTR,&nbsp;or&nbsp;a&nbsp;taxi,&nbsp;if&nbsp;your&nbsp;feet&nbsp;have&nbsp;had&nbsp;enough.This&nbsp;isn&#39;t&nbsp;a&nbsp;single-neighborhood&nbsp;snack&nbsp;crawl.&nbsp;Sham&nbsp;Shui&nbsp;Po&nbsp;and&nbsp;Mong&nbsp;Kok&nbsp;sit&nbsp;two&nbsp;stops&nbsp;apart&nbsp;on&nbsp;the&nbsp;MTR,&nbsp;but&nbsp;a&nbsp;generation&nbsp;apart&nbsp;in&nbsp;character&nbsp;—&nbsp;one&nbsp;holds&nbsp;onto&nbsp;post-war,&nbsp;working-class&nbsp;food&nbsp;traditions,&nbsp;the&nbsp;other&nbsp;moves&nbsp;at&nbsp;the&nbsp;speed&nbsp;of&nbsp;Kowloon&#39;s&nbsp;youth&nbsp;culture.&nbsp;Your&nbsp;guide,&nbsp;a&nbsp;Kowloon&nbsp;local,&nbsp;makes&nbsp;the&nbsp;throughline&nbsp;between&nbsp;them&nbsp;clear&nbsp;as&nbsp;you&nbsp;eat&nbsp;your&nbsp;way&nbsp;across&nbsp;it.